Wow
Thanksgiving: In short order, I have cut to the chase and written down my entire Thanksgiving menu for this year for all of you who are bored with your regular recipes. If you want to be a copycat, I am truly flattered!! -The recipes are being posted early, in case anyone wants to have time to get to the store before the day itself is upon us. I’ll talk about being grateful for what I have more towards the actual day.
I wanted to do a different turkey this year, so I am cooking a Moroccan bird. If you’re copying this, here’s the best piece of advice I can give someone: Make your preserved lemons now, so that they have time to sit around and, well, preserve. It won’t be a Moroccan turkey without them, and pickled or dried lemons are NOT the same. Preserved lemons are typically made at least a month in advance, but you can cheat with two-week-old lemons, or even one-week-old lemons in a pinch.
Preserved lemons: Cut the ends off 6 whole lemons, and blanche for 1 minute in briskly-boiling water. Dump the water and let them cool a little, then cut into quarters lengthwise. Cut out the strip of pith down the cross-section, and remove all seeds. Place in a bowl with 2/3 c. kosher salt, and toss. Not all the salt will dissolve, but this is okay. Place everything in a jar with a lid that seals tight, packing them down, and top with the juice of two more lemons. Cover everything with ¼ c. olive oil, seal tightly, and place in refrigerator. Shake or spoon things around inside the jar every few days. They should be perfect by Thanksgiving if you make them now. They’ll keep for about 6 months.
Dindon aux olives (Moroccan turkey with olives): If you truly hate green olives, you can leave them out of the cooking process and add them to the platter when you present the turkey. Pre-heat the oven to 475º. Make a tent out of heavy-duty aluminum foil for the bird and roaster, one that can be crimped down to avoid any heat or steam loss. Place 2/3 c. olive oil in the bottom of a turkey roaster (NOT an aluminum foil roasting pan – too dangerous when loaded with entire bird and drippings), and swirl to coat bottom evenly. Rub down your bird with kosher salt in the sink and make sure not to overlook the two body cavities. Rinse and pat dry, and place the turkey into the pan. Add to the bottom of the pan: 1 chopped onion, 2 pieces preserved lemon, 4 cloves smashed garlic (smash with the bottom of a weighted drinking glass), 6-8 cracked green olives, and a few handfuls of chopped cilantro. Place inside the bird’s main cavity: 4 pieces of preserved lemon, 1 bunch of washed and dried cilantro, ½ tsp. ground saffron threads (a mortar and pestle work well), 4 cloves smashed garlic, and 4 or 5 cracked green olives. Ignore the other cavity by the neck. Sprinkle bird minimally with kosher salt and a few grindings of black pepper. Now go back and use anti-bacterial cleaner on your hands and sink.
Place your bird into the oven and let it roast at 475 for 15 minutes. Then turn the heat down to 325. For the first quarter of the turkey’s cooking time, let it cook with no tent. Baste, and tent for the next (second) quarter of the cook time. Crimp the foil tightly so that nothing escapes the pan. At the beginning of the third quarter, add ½ tsp. ground saffron threads to the drippings, baste, and leave the tent off. Baste once more during this time. Baste at the beginning of the fourth quarter and baste two more times before pulling the bird out. It should have a slightly yellow tinge to it because of the saffron, but that’s just fine.
Gravy: If you choose to make gravy out of these drippings, add turkey stock rendered from boiling the giblets and neck, and commercial chicken stock. Use the gizzard and liver if you insist (I don’t, but it’s not giblet gravy unless you have the actually giblets in there). I use the smashed cloves of garlic from the pan and the bird cavity, and I put in two of the cooked pieces of preserved lemon into the gravy as it cooks, then remove them before pouring it out into a gravy boat. I even use the cilantro from the cavity if there’s any to coarsely chop. Gravy goes fast and any leftovers will go fast, too, so I wind up throwing in everything I’ve got laying around into it to make more. I use all the giblet stock, all my pre-fab chicken stock, all the drippings (minus most of the oil), the bag of ersatz gravy mix that comes with the bird, and I always, always buy packets of gravy mix, just in case something goes wrong (burned roux, lumpy gravy, even knocked-over gravy all over the kitchen floor). In any case, you’ll have awesome lemony, garlicky, saffron turkey gravy that will be a huge hit.
Remember thinking Wondra flour was a cheap cheat for cooks who didn’t know what they were doing in the kitchen? I happen to know what I’m doing in a kitchen, so it’s embarrassing how many times I’ve made lumpy gravy. I use Wondra now. Introduce it well and thoroughly into some of the turkey stock, and it will thicken anything, with zero lumps. Add a little cream or milk, about ½ cup, and salt and pepper. Get someone else whose palate you trust to taste the gravy – you’ll have dined off the smell at this point – and adjust the seasonings accordingly. Bon appétit with the turkey and gravy! It’s really something special.
“Real old” cornbread dressing: This recipe is from my friend Michael’s grandmother, who got it from her mother, and so on and so on. I think it dates back to the Civil War (notice I didn’t write “Civil War Cornbread Dressing” – it’s way more politic to write “real old”), and it’s historic. I’ve jazzed it up, though, probably to the dismay of Michael, but to my great delight, because the basic recipe is so good. Before you start on it, make a pan (cake pan-sized) of cornbread at your convenience and use no sugar.
Break up a pan of cornbread and add half a bag of commercial cornbread stuffing mix. Lighten everything up with 2 or 3 torn-up biscuits, maybe a few torn-up heels of old white bread, or even some saltine crackers. You’ll be eyeballing everything, but don’t worry – it’ll be fine. Throw in what is old, not moldy, and don’t use whole-wheat bread – it doesn’t taste good with cornbread.
Cook 8 oz. traditionally-seasoned ground sausage. Add to this one chopped-up onion and two stalks of chopped celery. Cook everything together until the onions caramelize a little bit. Pour everything over the bread, including the pan juices, and add 1 c. finely-chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley and 2/3 c. finely-chopped fresh sage. Heat 4 cups of chicken stock and pour over everything. It should be “juicy”, so if you need a 5th cup of stock, put it in. You can’t have enough liquid for cornbread dressings! Add salt and pepper to taste (about a teaspoon of salt and ½ tsp. pepper), taste to see if you need to add more sage (either fresh or dried at this point), and then add 3 beaten eggs. Pour into a greased pan and bake at 350 about 40 minutes.
Spinach-avocado-grapefruit salad: I’ve lived in California for about 12 years now, so I’ve discovered some interesting ways to use avocados. This salad is unusual, even weird to some people, but it works and is a nice departure from the same-old same-old. Allow 3-4 pieces of grapefruit and the same of avocado for each person. Peel your grapefruit and remove the pith with a paring knife. Slice in between the section membranes and pull each piece out of the center. Make sure no seeds are present, and place on top of a bed of fresh baby spinach. Add the avocado slices last (and make sure you add them right before you serve it; otherwise, they turn brown and yucky), pour on the poppy seed dressing, and toss very, very gently, leaving the avocado pieces intact. Good luck in pairing a wine with it – I think I’d serve it with ice water.
Poppy seed dressing:
3 T. chopped onion
2/3 cup vinegar
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tsp. dry mustard
2 tsp. salt
2 cups vegetable oil (NOT olive oil)
3 T. poppy seeds
In a blender, blend 3 T. chopped onion and 1/3 c. white vinegar until smooth. Add the 1 c. sugar, 2 tsp. dry mustard, 2 tsp. salt, and another 1/3 c. of vinegar. Add the oil in a thin stream until the mixture is thick, and add the poppy seeds last.
Alternative root slaw: Grate up a package of peeled sunchokes (about 2 cups), and grate an entire bulb of celery root, about 3 cups. Add 1 c. grated carrot, and dress immediately. Mix together: ½ c. mayonnaise, ½ c. light sour cream, ½ c. milk or buttermilk, ½ tsp. salt, 3 T. fresh thyme, a few grindings of black pepper, and ¼ of a grated onion. Adjust seasonings to taste. You’ll find this slaw soaks up dressing more than regular cole slaw, so you might have to make a little bit more dressing.
Green bean casserole: I don’t know why I’m putting this in here, but you never know – someone may need the amounts. Mix together 3 cans of drained French-cut green beans with 1 can of drained mushroom pieces and 2 cans of cream of chicken soup. Add a scant 3/4 c. of chicken stock. Mix well. My friend Michael’s trick is to add ½ a large can of fried onion pieces to the wet ingredients. Add the other ½ of the can to the top of the casserole about half-way through the baking period. Isn’t it 30 minutes at 350º? Shout out if I’m wrong.
Connecticut cranberry chutney: Given to me by my lovely friend Anna Hauer Zelinsky. Boil ½ c. white sugar and 1 c. brown sugar in 1 c. water and dump an entire bag of picked-over cranberries into it. Cook, stirring constantly, until the cranberries all pop. Take off heat and add ½ c. chopped dried apricots, ½ c. golden raisins, ½ tsp. cinnamon, ½ tsp. ground cardamom, ½ tsp. grated nutmeg, and 2 tsp. orange zest. Stir well. Add 2 T. dark rum and ½ c. coarsely-chopped pecans. This is all mine; where’s yours?? What do you mean, share?!?
Pear crisp: Core and cut up 8 pears of your choice and toss with ½ c. sugar, 1 T. cinnamon, a pinch of salt, and 2 T. flour. Pour all into a semi-deep baking pan (like a lasagne pan). With your fingertips, work together 1 c. brown sugar, 1 c. flour, and 1 softened stick of butter until it’s crumbly. Strew the streusel (!)over the top of the pears, and bake at 350º for 35-45 min. This is great with cinnamon ice cream or pumpkin pie ice cream.
Maple coffee: I have been introduced to Cohas maple coffee, roasted in New Hampshire. I’m ordinarily not a fan of flavored coffees, but I’m convinced now that the flavors of coffee and maple are so unique, and so uniquely suited to each other, that I can’t say enough good things about them. The coffee beans are roasted with maple syrup, and the result is aromatic and very pleasing. If you don’t want to buy some from www.cohascoffee.com, try this: add 1 tsp. maple extract to fresh coffee grounds before brewing (1 tsp. per whole pot of coffee; ½ tsp. per half-pot), and provide maple syrup as a sweetener for the coffee. Alternatively, whip ½ tsp. maple extract into heavy whipping cream with a tablespoon or two of superfine sugar for a twist on traditional Chantilly cream, or what the Viennese call “Schlagobers” on their coffee. To die for.
Whatever you do and wherever you are, have a very happy and restful Thanksgiving. If you have any questions about anything, email me at: caroline91201@peoplepc.com.